Minggu, 05 Januari 2014

Tehran foodies flock to American-style burger junctions

TEHRAN — At the car port Grill in an upscale Tehran district, classic rock performances from the speakers, and photographs of Paul Newman, James Dean and hot rods line the walls. It could be an old-time American diner, except that its hamburger prices contemplate a wealthier goal market here.

Right next door, Dukkan Burger serves its fare on butcher paper, with plenty of Heinz ketchup and French’s mustard supplied on demand. The clientele encompasses young women clutching designer purses, reaching with their designated days in European luxury vehicles.

Greasy burger joints have been part of Tehran’s fast-food landscape for decades, even in the years just after the 1979 Islamic transformation, when any emblem of U.S. culture was denounced as an demonstration of “Westoxification.” Those eateries were mostly in downtown working-class neighborhoods, assisting laborers in need of a explode of calories or scholars watching their budgets.

Now, though, high-end burger bistros are abruptly popping up across the city, making the gut-busting American institution — and the quest for the best burger — the latest tendency in Tehran dining.

Facebook sheets dedicated to localizedized hamburger outlets argument their relation merits, matching them to McDonald’s, In-N-Out, Burger monarch and other U.S. chains. That fascination with brands has produced in such blatant rip-offs as McAli’s, Superstar — conspicuously similar in look to Carl’s Jr. — and even a location calling itself Five friends.

After a string of restaurants catering to Tehran’s wealthy opened and shut in latest years, observers of the capital’s cooking scene say the rise of the value burger is not astonishing, especially given Iranians’ love of grilled beef.

“Burgers are very simple. It’s a pledge that’s very simple to deliver on,” said Payam Kashani-Nejad, the founder of Gumboo direct, a world wide web site dedicated to reconsiders of Tehran bistros. “And it’s a large-scale market.”

David Yaghoobi, until lately creative controller at a top Iranian advocating agency and now founded in London, noted that the burger, while well-known here, is still rather exotic, increasing its appeal.

“In Iran, most things foreign are advised high-end, and as a burger is advised foreign, perhaps there is some of that, too,” he said.

It is no coincidence, then, that most of the new hamburger bistros are in the affluent neighborhoods of northern Tehran, in the foothills of the snowcapped Alborz hills — places such as Niavaran, where Garage Grill and Dukkan could challenge to open side by edge.

“Our notion is solely American,” said Arash Farhadpour-
Shirazi, co-owner of Garage Grill. “Burgers and cars.”

The young male servers at car port Grill wear T-shirts from a classic-car rally that the bistro sponsored last year. A neon path 66 signal suspends in the front doorwayway overhead the back half of a classic Austin Mini. The car’s front half and the front of an orange BMW 2002 twice as the restaurant’s grills.

“It’s a short escape into a distinct environment,” Farhadpour-Shirazi said. “Iranians love the American style. The grass is greener in the U.S.”

In nearby Farmanieh, the most well liked of Tehran’s new burger junctions, Burgerland, was opened last year by the members of the Iranian below ground band Barobax.

In 2010, Barobax produced the large-scale household music strike in latest memory, the marriage staple “Soosan Khanoom.” But the assembly constituents say they begun Burgerland because there is more money in the nourishment enterprise than in playing music.

Fans line up to take photographs with them, but they deny that is the major reason Burgerland is perpetually crammed.

“Maybe the first and second time people arrive it’s to glimpse us, but if they didn’t like the nourishment, they wouldn’t come afresh and afresh,” said Khashayar Moradi Haghgoo, who owns and sprints the bistro with his bandmates and kin, Keivan Moradi Haghgoo and Hamid Forouzmand. He said Burgerland frequently sells 1,500 hamburgers a day, more than three times the output of most eateries encompassed in this report.

Across village, in the western district of Shahrak-e Gharb, BurgerHouse sees itself as the pioneer of Tehran’s hamburger craze. In business for three years, owner Amir Javadi said no one else was trading value burgers in the town when he opened, and then “this year, all of a rapid, burger joints started sprouting like mushrooms.”

BurgerHouse started as strictly takeout and consignment but unintentionally became Tehran’s lone drive-in restaurant.

“We observed that persons would choose up their orders and then just sit in their vehicles and eat,” Javadi said. “There are additional costs for consignment, like the wrapping, so we started giving the choice of bringing trays to customers’ vehicles, and people got utilised to it.”

Every night, even throughout the freezing winter, the narrow road that is home to BurgerHouse is bordered with cars of clients waiting for their alignment figures to emerge on a computer display above the tiny shop front.

To Javadi, the achievement of burgers in Tehran is unconnected to any specific heritage trends or preferences beyond the easy delights of the nourishment itself.

“No one looks at a burger as something American or even foreign anymore,” Javadi said. “It’s one of the world’s favorite foods.

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