Tehran foodies flock to American-style burger junctions
TEHRAN — At the car port Grill in an upscale Tehran district, classic rock
performances from the speakers, and photographs of Paul Newman, James
Dean and hot rods line the walls. It could be an old-time American
diner, except that its hamburger prices contemplate a wealthier goal
market here.
Right next door, Dukkan Burger serves its fare on
butcher paper, with plenty of Heinz ketchup and French’s mustard
supplied on demand. The clientele encompasses young women clutching
designer purses, reaching with their designated days in European luxury
vehicles.
Greasy burger joints have been part of Tehran’s
fast-food landscape for decades, even in the years just after the 1979
Islamic transformation, when any emblem of U.S. culture was denounced as
an demonstration of “Westoxification.” Those eateries were mostly in
downtown working-class neighborhoods, assisting laborers in need of a
explode of calories or scholars watching their budgets.
Now,
though, high-end burger bistros are abruptly popping up across the city,
making the gut-busting American institution — and the quest for the
best burger — the latest tendency in Tehran dining.
Facebook
sheets dedicated to localizedized hamburger outlets argument their
relation merits, matching them to McDonald’s, In-N-Out, Burger monarch
and other U.S. chains. That fascination with brands has produced in such
blatant rip-offs as McAli’s, Superstar — conspicuously similar in look
to Carl’s Jr. — and even a location calling itself Five friends.
After
a string of restaurants catering to Tehran’s wealthy opened and shut in
latest years, observers of the capital’s cooking scene say the rise of
the value burger is not astonishing, especially given Iranians’ love of
grilled beef.
“Burgers are very simple. It’s a pledge that’s very
simple to deliver on,” said Payam Kashani-Nejad, the founder of Gumboo
direct, a world wide web site dedicated to reconsiders of Tehran
bistros. “And it’s a large-scale market.”
David Yaghoobi, until
lately creative controller at a top Iranian advocating agency and now
founded in London, noted that the burger, while well-known here, is
still rather exotic, increasing its appeal.
“In Iran, most things
foreign are advised high-end, and as a burger is advised foreign,
perhaps there is some of that, too,” he said.
It is no
coincidence, then, that most of the new hamburger bistros are in the
affluent neighborhoods of northern Tehran, in the foothills of the
snowcapped Alborz hills — places such as Niavaran, where Garage Grill
and Dukkan could challenge to open side by edge.
“Our notion is solely American,” said Arash Farhadpour-
Shirazi, co-owner of Garage Grill. “Burgers and cars.”
The
young male servers at car port Grill wear T-shirts from a classic-car
rally that the bistro sponsored last year. A neon path 66 signal
suspends in the front doorwayway overhead the back half of a classic
Austin Mini. The car’s front half and the front of an orange BMW 2002
twice as the restaurant’s grills.
“It’s a short escape into a
distinct environment,” Farhadpour-Shirazi said. “Iranians love the
American style. The grass is greener in the U.S.”
In nearby
Farmanieh, the most well liked of Tehran’s new burger junctions,
Burgerland, was opened last year by the members of the Iranian below
ground band Barobax.
In 2010, Barobax produced the large-scale
household music strike in latest memory, the marriage staple “Soosan
Khanoom.” But the assembly constituents say they begun Burgerland
because there is more money in the nourishment enterprise than in
playing music.
Fans line up to take photographs with them, but they deny that is the major reason Burgerland is perpetually crammed.
“Maybe
the first and second time people arrive it’s to glimpse us, but if they
didn’t like the nourishment, they wouldn’t come afresh and afresh,”
said Khashayar Moradi Haghgoo, who owns and sprints the bistro with his
bandmates and kin, Keivan Moradi Haghgoo and Hamid Forouzmand. He said
Burgerland frequently sells 1,500 hamburgers a day, more than three
times the output of most eateries encompassed in this report.
Across
village, in the western district of Shahrak-e Gharb, BurgerHouse sees
itself as the pioneer of Tehran’s hamburger craze. In business for three
years, owner Amir Javadi said no one else was trading value burgers in
the town when he opened, and then “this year, all of a rapid, burger
joints started sprouting like mushrooms.”
BurgerHouse started as strictly takeout and consignment but unintentionally became Tehran’s lone drive-in restaurant.
“We
observed that persons would choose up their orders and then just sit in
their vehicles and eat,” Javadi said. “There are additional costs for
consignment, like the wrapping, so we started giving the choice of
bringing trays to customers’ vehicles, and people got utilised to it.”
Every
night, even throughout the freezing winter, the narrow road that is
home to BurgerHouse is bordered with cars of clients waiting for their
alignment figures to emerge on a computer display above the tiny shop
front.
To Javadi, the achievement of burgers in Tehran is
unconnected to any specific heritage trends or preferences beyond the
easy delights of the nourishment itself.
“No one looks at a burger as something American or even foreign anymore,” Javadi said. “It’s one of the world’s favorite foods.”
Tidak ada komentar:
Posting Komentar